

Dr. Emi: "Scalp massage is a game-changer!"
Scalp care is now sexy - thanks to social media. Star dermatologist Dr. Emi Arpa reveals why she considers massage a highly underestimated method and how you can get the most out of your mane with little effort and consistency.
Healthy scalp, healthy hair. This is probably the most important insight I've gained about hair care through my work as a beauty editor. One person who consistently advocates for more scalp love is Dr. Emi Arpa, a specialist in dermatology and venereology. However, most people know her not from her Berlin practice, where she regularly treats well-known personalities, but from Instagram. On her account, she shares her medical expertise with her approximately 677,000 followers. Including me.
I meet Dr. Emi via Teams for a conversation. The topic? Scalp massage. A routine the expert swears by.
Emi, you're known to be a big fan of scalp massage. What happens when we knead our head?
Dr. Emi Arpa, specialist in dermatology and venereology: With scalp massage, we try to stimulate blood circulation in the scalp. The blood vessels dilate, and more nutrients reach the follicles. This, in turn, affects our hair.
In one of your videos, you describe this method as a "game changer." What realistic before-and-after effects can be expected?
Very important: You cannot achieve more than what is genetically predetermined for you. I constantly see people who start scalp massage because they want hair like this or that person. If it doesn't work, they declare the massage a failure. However, the density, thickness, and maximum possible length of your hair are genetically programmed. Even with regular scalp massage, you can't change that.
So I can only get the optimum out of what my DNA provides.
Exactly! And this optimum looks different for everyone.
How do I know when I've reached the optimum?
Hair growth and follicle genetics are super complex topics. But you can orient yourself by a few points. What kind of hair do your parents have? What was your hair like as a child? You shouldn't expect more than the fullest version of the hair you had as a child. But that shouldn't be underestimated. Often, there's a lot to be gained before reaching that point. Many people fall short of what would be possible due to their diet or product and styling choices.
Can my hair also grow faster if I massage my scalp?
Yes, you can influence the speed at which your hair grows. And the shine too.

Does such a massage also influence our microbiome?
Yes, the increased blood circulation provides the microbiome with more nutrients. The correct handling of the scalp also influences the microbiome. If you expose your hair to extreme heat, you destroy it. By using mild styling products, however, you can promote it.
How often and for how long do I need to apply it until I see the first results?
You need to do the massages for three months. Study results suggest performing the massage twice daily. From practical observation, I would say: five to ten minutes once a day is also enough.
You shared your exact massage instructions on Tiktok.
The video is a good starting point. Honestly, I don't think you can do much wrong there. The main thing is to apply medium pressure and work on a dry head to avoid knots and hair breakage. When wet, our scalp is more vulnerable because the skin barrier is loosened. Generally, however, you feel what is good for you and what is not. Pain or pulled-out hair should not occur with a finger massage.
And if I use a classic scalp massage brush?
That's trickier. Hair can get caught in the rubber bristles and be pulled out. Especially if you make too large movements. Basically, however, the brush is a nice tool that I also like to use sometimes.

Are there any gadgets in the context of scalp massage where you think, "Absolutely not!"?
Many of the tools that are hyped on Tiktok have little to no evidence on the scalp. Red light therapies are an example of this. The question then arises whether you're not throwing a lot of money out the window.
What about microneedling rollers? I see those on social media all the time too...
I think microneedling itself is great. Especially for incorporating serums, because it also boosts scalp circulation and stimulates stem cells. The problem is: when people use the roller on their own at home, application errors can occur.
Which would be?
If you apply too much pressure, you can injure your skin barrier, which can lead to a superinfection. As a dermatologist, I therefore cannot recommend microneedling across the board with a clear conscience. However, if the application is performed in a practice where hygiene and correct handling are guaranteed, microneedling can lead to a great effect. Anyone who wants to benefit from it should put themselves in professional hands.
For anyone who wants to get started with scalp massage: Which tools are absolutely necessary and which do you consider more of a nice-to-have?
Your fingers are completely sufficient. Optionally, you can supplement the massage with a scalp serum. Preferably one that contains active ingredients that support vasodilation.
Does the massage have any other effect besides the cosmetic one?
It relaxes. During scalp massage, we stimulate the vagus nerve, which is responsible for rest and relaxation. This activates the so-called parasympathetic nervous system. This is the mode in which our body calms down. If the parasympathetic nervous system is active, it in turn promotes scalp circulation.
This interview was conducted in collaboration with Dyson.
As a massive Disney fan, I see the world through rose-tinted glasses. I worship series from the 90s and consider mermaids a religion. When I’m not dancing in glitter rain, I’m either hanging out at pyjama parties or sitting at my make-up table. P.S. I love you, bacon, garlic and onions.
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