Playful ceramic lamp: how to model it yourself - at home without a kiln
19/1/2026
Translation: machine translated
Pictures: Stefanie Lechthaler
Want to bring light and colour into your life? No problem. I'll show you how to model a playful lamp from air-drying clay.
Although the internet is teeming with ceramic lamp bases, I don't like many of them. That's why I just try it myself and model my own creations from air-drying clay that suit me.
And that's how you do it too
Because I'm doing a product test with the Sculpd pottery set anyway, I'm using what's in there. However, you don't have to do this, as the purchase of the individual components could be more financially worthwhile for you. You can read more about this in the test at the end of this guide.
If you don't want to run to the ceramics workshop for your creation, you will need air-drying clay, a rolling pin, rolling pins, a knife, brushes, acrylic paint, acrylic varnish and ceramic tool.
In addition, you will need a light fitting (make sure it has a press ring and a socket connection) and a suitable light bulb. I like large light bulbs that project light effects onto the wall. They give the charming lamp an even more playful touch.
Light bulbs
Quantity discount
EUR9,28 per piece for 4 units
Osram Vintage 1906 LED Pine
E27, 470 lm, 1 x
Modelling
To start, tear off a small lump of clay, crush it into a bowl and pour water over the pieces. This will later become «Slurry», a muddy mixture that will help you to glue the clay together.
Knead the clay for your sculpture until it has a uniform consistency. Ideally, you will no longer recognise any bubbles in the clay. If cracks form, moisten the clay with water.
Next, roll out the modelling clay between two rolling pins until it is one centimetre thick. Turn the clay over several times to prevent it from sticking to the work surface. You should not roll out the clay too thinly. In my first attempt - with half a centimetre - the lamp base collapsed because it was too unstable.
In the next step, mark a strip about ten centimetres wide on the rolled-out clay and cut off the protruding edges with a knife.
Then cut off the two edges on the left and right and stand the rectangle up so that you are holding a cylinder in your hands. By the way, shipping or cardboard rolls are perfect for supporting the cylinder at this point. If you have a cardboard roll at home, place the clay around it. Otherwise, simply hold the modelling clay firmly with your hands. This is how I do it
Now bring the roll to the desired diameter and cut off the excess clay. Score the two edges that come together with the knife.
The water-covered pieces from the beginning should now be swollen. You can help with a fork if the slurry is still too lumpy. Brush the slippery mixture onto the sides of the clay where the two sides meet.
Form two rolls from the cut-off scraps. Place them over the seam on the inside and outside and spread them out until the clay sausages are no longer recognisable.
To create the «lid», roll another piece of clay between the pieces of wood to form a flat circle. It should protrude about one centimetre beyond the edge of the cylinder. Poke a hole in the centre the same diameter as the press ring. Thread the light bulb through it.
Score the top edge of the cylinder again and coat it with slurry. Then place the «lid» with the hole on top. Use your finger to smooth down any excess along the cylinder. To make sure that everything is in place, reinforce the lid with another clay roll from below.
Another tip to support your sculpture while it dries: Place a bowl or cardboard in the cylinder under the still soft «lid». If the mass deforms or collapses too much, you can still shape it well after an hour or two. Smooth out any unevenness and cracks with your fingers or a damp sponge. However, be sparing with the water and work your way up to the right amount.
Finally, the lamp base needs a slot for the power cable. It doesn't matter which side you put it on. It's best to put it in the place you like least - if there is one. The main thing is that you don't forget it.
Paint
After 48 hours, your sculpture should be bone dry. This means that there is no residual moisture left in the clay. You can recognise this by the fact that the material colour has changed from a darker to a lighter shade.
For the primer, brush the lamp base with white acrylic paint. Preferably on the outside and inside at the same time so that the material is better protected against moisture.
One coat should be enough for the primer. If you still want to apply a second coat, you must wait until the first is completely dry. Otherwise, you'll have the same mishap as me and the paint will come off in one piece. Although the acrylic paint dries relatively quickly, I advise you to wait at least three hours before applying the next coat of paint.
In various video tutorials, the craft enthusiasts use painter's tape to mark out straight edges. For me, this attempt doesn't work without removing the dry paint and primer from the painter's tape.
That's why I finally decide on a simple pattern and decorate the lamp with stripes, which I paint over twice for more luminosity. With the right brushes and a bit of skill, however, nothing stands in the way of a wild painting.
You should also wait long enough after the second coat to apply the acrylic varnish. This gives your sculpture a second protective layer and makes it shine. Like normal paint, spread the protective lacquer generously over the lamp base with a brush and leave it to dry for 12 hours. If the surface no longer offers any resistance after the hours of maintenance, you can screw in the lamp holder and insert the light bulb.
Then all you have to do is connect the lamp to the power supply and find a suitable place for it.
Header image: Stefanie Lechthaler
Painting the walls just before handing over the flat? Making your own kimchi? Soldering a broken raclette oven? There's nothing you can't do yourself. Well, perhaps sometimes, but I'll definitely give it a try.
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